On the Road: Family, Friends, Adventure
On our new E Bikes
The first stop after leaving our camp host site at Samuel P Taylor State Park was The New Wheel Electric Bike shop in Larkspur to pick up our brand new Specialized Electric Bicycles on Friday, April 30. We have been looking for E-bikes ever since retiring, but like so many other things during this pandemic they have been in short supply. We test rode Specialized Como models in Auburn in January, and after one ride up a steep hill we were sold on these awesome pedal assist bikes, but there were none in stock and no estimate of when they might come in. We heard about The New Wheel in Larkspur from the in-laws of Jelani, the store manager. They were regular walkers at Samuel P Taylor. We went to the shop a few weeks ago to test ride various brands and decided that Specialized were the ones we wanted. It's hard to explain how truly awesome they are. They were an extravagant purchase, but paid for by a generous retirement gift from Eureka First United Methodist Church and our income tax refund that was based on not having to pay social security after I retired. We rode the bicycles around Larkspur for about a mile before loading them on a brand new, heavy duty bike rack and heading north on 101. It would be a couple of days before we'd be able to ride them again.
Friday afternoon we headed to my sister Elizabeth's home in Potter Valley near Ukiah to be there for my nephew Paul's wedding on Saturday morning - bright and early. Just as the ceremony to join Paul and Tiffany was about to begin, four geese flew over honking their approval. I managed to take no pictures of anyone that day since I wasn't wearing pockets for my phone camera. Below are a couple of pictures from others.
Flower girls Sophia and Naomi (Our granddaughters)
They are followed by Paul's son and daughter and Tiffany's niece.
Paul and Tiffany wrapped in the ribbons of their wedding day May pole.
Note the beautiful ring that formed part of the backdrop of where they said their vows amongst the beautiful, still green, hills surrounding my sister and her family's home.
Our beautiful meadow setting complete with electric and water.
The view out our window one morning
The view from the house the same morning
"Notchy"
This is one of a few named raccoons that visit Dolores and Jerome's deck regularly.
Notice the Notch on this one's right ear - thus "Notchy"
We didn't see a bear, but we did see evidence of one visiting the meadow.
The view from the balcony at Eureka First United Methodist Church, Sunday May 2, 2021
The first Sunday since March 15, 2020 that Eureka First UMC invited folks to indoor worship just happened to coincide with our visit north. All kinds of safety protocols were in place, but it was good to be present with the congregation for its first time back to in person worship. I wondered how I would feel after being retired for 10 months, and I honestly have to say, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude for having been the pastor of this congregation for 8 years, no regrets about retirement, and gratitude that I remain a part of this community, though at a distance most of the time.
We also had a visit from our friend and veterinarian, Erszi, to give the kitties their rabies vaccines.
The first place I walked after getting to Eureka was to Sequoia Park, a short walk from Dolores' house. During the time we were there I walked there several times - sometimes alone, sometimes with Rob, sometimes with Dolores. I was eager to see the 9 baby wood ducks that I'd heard had arrived the week before. While we were there another clutch of 10 babies appeared. The older ducklings scattered all over the duck pond, but the new ones stayed close to their momma. It was fun to be in the redwoods north of Marin County where much of the vegetation was the same, but blooming was of course a little later.
A Trail in Sequoia Park
One of the interesting trees
The new Sky Walk in the tree canopy of Sequoia Park
I was of course delighted to see Trilliums in the park!
There were still lots of white ones blooming, and these are much larger than the ones at Samuel P Taylor.
One of the little waterfalls in the grotto.
One of the week old ducklings
Mama duck with ten new babies (one is hiding)
The new mother was quick to defend her brood!
A magnificent Wood Duck drake
One morning while at the duck pond with Dolores a Blue Heron flew in for a visit.
Wednesday, May 5, we headed north to Patrick's Point State Park where we would stay for two nights. The first time we camped at Patrick's Point was in 1992 when the United Methodist Church had a conference wide retreat on the campus of Humboldt State. Seeking to save money we decided to camp instead of staying on the campus. We didn't get a lot of time in the park, but we knew we wanted to go back and spend more time there. While living in Eureka we frequently hiked and camped at Patrick's Point, and decided we wanted to spend time there on this trip. Thursday morning we rode the bicycles about 14 miles round trip to the post office in Trinidad to mail the letters. Once again the bikes were awesome - Rob was less than enthusiastic about the ride because of the cold wind. We enjoyed hiking in the park on familiar trails, and I noticed some of the vegetation as if seeing it for the first time.
Need to duck to continue here
Though Patrick's Point doesn't have Redwood trees, it does have Trilliums.
Western Lillies of the Valley
These were very prolific, and covering large areas similar to the way Redwood Sorrel does under the Redwood trees.
Fairy Bells
After identifying the Fairy Bells that grew amongst the Western Lilies of the Valley I was reminded of a children's song: "White Coral Bells upon a slender stock, Lilies of the Valley line my garden walk. Oh, don't you wish that you could hear them ring? That will happen only when the fairies sing."
Here the Western Lillies of the Valley line the trail.
This "unfolding" of the new ferns was all over Patrick's Point - and every place we've been with ferns this spring. I really love seeing this process.
Skunk Cabbage beginning to bloom
There is lots of Skunk Cabbage at Patrick's Point State Park, but this was the only plant I saw starting to bloom. When in full bloom it is easy to understand how Skunk Cabbage got the name - they stink! I remember once years ago walking at Patrick's Point and catching a whiff of the blooming Skunk Cabbage and thinking someone was smoking pot near by - nope, it was the Skunk Cabbage.
This trip was too early to smell them.
Redwood Violets at Patrick's Point
Ceanothus
This common brush plant had especially vibrant blossoms while we were at Patrick's Point
Wintergreen
I'm not sure I've seen, or at least really noticed, this in bloom before - very pretty
A rhododendron blooming near the park entrance
One of the old buildings in Sumeg Village, a recreated Yurok Village.
A new building in Sumeg Village under construction.
It looked like traditional building methods were being used to construct this.
Some time ago I learned that there is a move to rename Patrick's Point State Park to Sumeg Village in keeping with the fact that the Yurok people first lived on this land. As coincidence would have it while we were at Patrick's Point I learned of concerted efforts for this name change happening now, as well as the possible renaming of Peacock Bar on the Smith River - more about that later in this post.
The Rim Trail at Patrick's Point follows the coast line with many views of the ocean and several access points to rock outcroppings, beach and tide pools.
A seagull flying below us at the outcropping called Patrick's Point.
A view from the Rim Trail as we approached Palmer Point.
Looking south at Palmer Point
Noisy sea lions off Palmer Point
Agate Beach
We walked down to Agate Beach our first evening in the park, but didn't find any agates. Actually we didn't even look for them. We've never had luck in the past - don't think we have enough patience. I was happy to see that the final descent to the beach was still in good shape after its restoration a couple of years ago and that a new set of stairs has replaced some badly deteriorated ones. Trails require lots of maintenance, and there is limited funding and limited workers for such efforts.
We took a walk at sunset and I noticed these trees reflecting the setting sun's light
A May Sunset at Patrick's Point State Park - perhaps soon to be Sumeg Village State Park
Our destination when we left Patrick's Point on Friday, May 7, was the home of Steve and Sue Peacock on the Smith River near Crescent City. These are the friends we visited in Washington state last summer at their cabin near the Canadian border. During the winter they live on the land Steve's great grandfather homesteaded in the 1880s. Steve and Sue live in the house his grandfather built around 1925. The original homestead house, near what is known as Peacock Bar, burned in 1915. After learning just a few days before heading north about the effort to rename Peacock Bar to a Tolowa name I was eager to see Peacock Bar and learn more about the history of the Peacock family in that place. Friday evening we walked with Steve and Sue from their house to Peacock Bar which is part of Jedidiah Smith State Park, but was previously part of the Peacock homestead and before that Tolowa land for eons of time. We met Steve and Sue not long after moving to Eureka in 2012, and coincidentally I have long had a fascination with Jedidiah Smith State Park and the Crescent City area. Del Norte County where Jedidiah Smith State Park is located is one of the poorest counties in the state, and one of the least populated and yet it is located in one of the most beautiful natural settings anywhere - beautiful coast line, old growth Redwood forests, the stunningly beautiful wild Smith River and not far from the Siskiyou Mountains. Rob and I first visited Jedidiah Smith State Park on our honeymoon 51 years ago. We stopped there on our way north, but didn't camp there, probably because it was too early in the day so we went on to a campground in Oregon, but I was touched then by its beauty and always wanted to return. We camped there a couple of times after moving to Eureka, and in other campgrounds along the Smith River, but have not spent as much time there as I'd like. Perhaps next year we can get a camp host spot there? I want to explore more the conjunction between that beautiful place, its history and the friendships I have with descendants of settlers and indigenous people. But on this trip we mainly walked and talked.
Steve and Sue's side yard
The sign at the road leading past the old homestead house site and to a beautiful swimming hole on the Smith River.
Site of the former ferry crossing
This square piece of concrete is all that's left of the original house built by Steve's great grandfather.
In the background you can see the tops of rocks that contain evidence of acorn grinding by the Indigenous people long ago. This location is adjacent to an oak grove - the only one in the area.
Grinding holes in the rock
Another larger grinding hole
On Saturday morning Steve and I headed out to hike on the Hiouchi Trail that follows above the Smith River. Steve broke his ankle several weeks ago, and has been making amazing progress on it. He decided the Hiouchi Trail, that involves some ups and downs would be the next level of "therapy" he should provide the ankle. Steve is an avid hiker with a long stride and normally hard to keep up with, but the healing ankle slowed him down a bit so our hiking speed on Saturday was pretty even. It won't be long before he is hiking his beautiful mountain trails near the old homestead and in Washington State this summer.
Beginning the hike on the Hiouchi Trail
A view of the Smith River from the trail
A tree we had to cross under, but this one was easy.
Surprise! A Trillium along the trail.
This is where we turned around, about 2 miles from the trail head and close to Mill Creek.
We could have made it over that log at the top of the stairs - we'd made it over and under much more challenging spots, but this was a good turn around spot next to a pretty river overlook.
The Smith River from our turn around
This tree and branches were across the trail - we crossed it going and coming.
A duck on the Smith River.
This picture shows the beautiful shade of green that is the Smith River.
You've heard of "drive through" Redwood trees?
This is a "hike through" Redwood tree stump.
After leaving the Peacock's on Saturday morning we headed north to Gold Beach to camp at Huntley Park, a "City" park about 7 miles up the Rogue River. Our campsite was right on the river bank and not far from our Sunday morning destination at the mouth of the river where we would ride Jerry's Jet Boats 52 miles up the river and 52 miles back. My parents rode the old mail boat up the Rogue River to Agness, Oregon (32 miles up river) on their honeymoon in 1949. I've long wanted to ride the jet boats that travel the same route, but until now we were either off season or didn't want to spend the time and money, but I decided that for Mother's Day 2021 a jet boat ride on the Rogue would be the perfect thing.
Our campsite at Huntley Park
A view of the Rogue from the Rogue River Walk Trail that I walked a ways on early Sunday morning.
Turkeys in the campground
A jet boat heading down river while we sat out in the sunshine on Saturday afternoon.
Jerry's Jet Boats
Jerry started the first commercial boat trips up the Rogue in 1958. Several years later the family sold the company, but some of Jerry's descendants are still piloting the boats, including Jerry's grandson Darrin who was our pilot and guide for the adventure.
A California Sea Lion sending us off
Heading toward the bridge where 101 crosses the Rogue River
Heading up river
On Osprey nest at the top of a tree.
A Bald Eagle nest
We saw several Eagles and Osprey flying during the day and even saw one Eagle challenging another Eagle in the air for its catch of a smaller bird.
A Pond Turtle sunning itself on a rock
A momma bear and her two cubs
One of many water falls along the Rogue
Riding some rapids.
We also did some impressive 360 degree spins, but only got a little wet. We have previously ridden a jet boat on the Klamath River and we remember the spins as more exciting and more wet. I think that boat ride was in the summer when the cold water felt good. In May the temperatures were a bit chilly on the river so I think Darrin was being conservative with his spins and rapid riding.
The lodge at Agness, 32 miles up river, where we stopped on the way up river for a break and for lunch on the way back down.
A Harbor Seal on a rock on our way back.
We enjoyed our adventure on the Rogue River!
We have heard from lots of folks that Bandon is one of their favorite spots on the Oregon coast, so Bullards Beach State Park, 55 miles north of Gold Beach was our next stop. Bullards Beach is just two miles north of Bandon, across the Coquille River. We ended up staying two nights so we could spend time riding our bicycles to Bandon on Monday, May 10. We enjoyed about 15 miles of riding to and around Bandon, came back to camp for a leisurely afternoon and then after dinner rode our bicycles to the lighthouse about 3 miles away. On the way back, facing a strong head wind, we learned the hard way that when the batteries have less than 10% of a charge left, their power to assist us pedaling decreases significantly. But the low gears of the bicycles made it not so bad getting back to camp, even with the strong wind. In the future we'll charge the batteries sooner.
Here is part of the trail I walked to the beach on Monday morning.
The trail with the ocean just beyond the rise.
A steep cut in the 15 foot bank to make the beach accessible from the trail
After breakfast on Monday we headed out on the bikes to Bandon. It is only about 2 miles away, but it's across the river and the only way to get there is on 101. Most of the highway here has a very wide paved shoulder, so we felt comfortable riding next to traffic, but the bridge has no shoulder and I was a bit nervous about that. There was a button to push for lights to alert motorists that there were bicycles on the bridge, and as it turned out no cars passed us going our direction when going to Bandon or when returning.
Rob by a seahorse statue
The beautiful rocky coast of Bandon
Today, Tuesday, May 11, 2021, we will leave Bullards Beach and head north along the coast - not positive where we'll stop for tonight, but by tomorrow night we want to be near Astoria at the mouth of the Columbia River and then we'll head up the Columbia River past Portland before turning south next week.
Elsie found a sunny spot on the dashboard.
Straus and Elsie "chilling" in their usual spot.
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